
On Tuesday night, we visited the Gion district of Kyoto. Gion is famous as the geisa district and known for its teahouses, theaters and shops. Gion could be another tourist area in any major city in the world, until you reach the geisha quarter, where old, wooden buildings house restaurants, small hotels, and shops. Some of the buildings do not have English signage and we were told that many of the establishments where the geisha perform are not open to the non-Japanese without a special introduction from a valued customer. In the midst of the crowds, we saw beautifully made up and dressed geisha hurrying about, trying to be gracious to the crowds gawking at them and popping flashes in their faces.
Finally, you see old and new in the ryokan hotel where we stayed our first two nights in Kyoto. Ryokan are traditional Japanese guesthouses. During our visit to Edomura, we learned that the first ryokan were established during the early Tokugawa period for travelers; prior to the ryokan, travelers slept in open fields or barns. Ryokan hotels are modern structures, but they have traditional rooms with tatami mats, futon and low tables for enjoying a cup of tea. Traditional ryokans tend to be outside the city limits and are housed in older, traditional structures. Ryokan are famous for the public bath areas where men and women (separated) can enjoy a soak in a large, heated bath. Both mornings at the ryokan, I got up early to shower and soak in the women's bath. I had the place to myself and the steam, hot water and sound of water were a great way to start the day.
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